If you’re reading this now, you’ll notice I actually released my brand new report (How To Properly Maintain Your Swimming Pool Equipment) about 36 hours ahead of the email (the email sharing this report won’t go out until Friday morning)

It pays to stay up to date and check out the blog periodically.  This is just my way of saying “thank you” for being a subscriber to the swimming pool industry’s leading maintenance newsletter.

In this report you’ll discover:

1.  The single, main enemy of a swimming pool pump (and what to do if you are “attacked” by this enemy).

2.  Proper filter maintenance - what to check for, when and what to do if something is not right.

3.  4 main items that one should take note of when it comes to maintaining their pool pump.

4.  The importance of being PROACTIVE when it comes to maintenance (hint:  being REACTIVE can cause us a bunch of frustration and a ton of cash).

5.  And some other really cool things too!

Download your report right here!

Note: It’s a quick read (about 9 pages, but there’s some images and such).  I’m confident you’re going to benefit from the information - take 10 minutes and check it out.

My Big Announcement:

One of the most frequently received questions I’ve received over the past few years revolves around “being environmentally friendly”.  Alternative ways to heat a swimming pool, solar energy, the benefits of salt systems, geothermal technology, ways to save on electricity, solar blankets/pool covers, multi speed pool pumps, etc…

Problem Solved.

**  Important  ** My newest product, “How To Save The Environment, Your Pool And Your Wallet” will be going live at 2 PM ET on May 20, 2009. This will show you how to be environmentally friendly with your pool and it will also share with you how to save a ton of cash at the same time!  It does save to go green (you’re going to LOVE this).

Be on the lookout.

Also, in the next few days, I’ll be sharing some really good information on “the real cost of chemicals”, alternative methods to heat a pool and items you can do right now to save on your electricity bill (and help the environment at the same time).  And yes, these items can be implemented NOW to save a bundle as we enter the pool season.

Enjoy.

Hope all is well with you and yours.

I’ll be in touch soon!

Terry Duff

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Here’s What You Need To Know If You’re Planning On Doing An Acid Wash To your Swimming Pool.

Sidenote: An acid wash should not be administered to a vinyl or above ground pool.

Who can do this? Anyone who’s willing to get a little dirty.  This can be done by pool owners who are looking to save a few bucks - there is labor involved.  Make sure you wear jeans, protective boots, goggles, rubber gloves and a respirator - the acid fumes can be very strong. This is not something to take lightly.

An acid wash is also called a drain and clean or an acid bath.  An acid wash becomes necessary if the pool has become a black lagoon (can often happen if winterizing has not been completed properly).  This is also a great way to eliminate/reduce staining.

What an acid wash really does: The purpose of an acid wash is to remove a very fine layer of the pool surface - bringing out a “new” coat.  When done properly, an acid wash can really make the pool surface look near new again.

A general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is if you can see the bottom of the pool, most of the time, you can bring it back to life with chemicals, some elbow grease and adequate filtration/circulation. If the floor is not visible, the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the acid wash charge, and take quite a bit longer. Also, extensive and repetitive algae problems will stain plastered pools, making an acid wash the recommended route to take.

An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster, exposing fresh plaster beneath. One should not do this every year. If you have consistent staining - there’s something taking place in the chemistry (test for metals, TDS and calcium counts in the water). Most plaster coats (whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2″, so a few careful acid washes should not hurt.

If the staining is very light you may want to consider doing a pressure wash or a very light acid wash (consider 3 parts acid/1 part water - do a small area and see how it looks).

You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains…an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement.

If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily….changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer.

Be extremely careful in working with muriatic acid. Pool technicians and professionals are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location.  You can (and should) have the soda ash at the bottom of the pool to immediately neutralize the acid as it flows down during the wash.

Phase 1 to an acid wash: As you drain the pool, wash it down (scrub if necessary) to remove all algae, leaves and any other debris.

Phase 2: When the pool is clean and empty, you can begin to acid wash the plaster. Put on protective clothing and rubber boots, goggles and wear a breathing mask designed for acid fumes.

Phase 3: Proper mixing of the acid.  Add 1 gallon acid to 1 gallon water in a flower watering can.  Always add the acid to the water - NOT water to acid.  Wet down the wall with a hose. Keep the hose(s) running at all times, without a nozzle on it. Pour the acid/water mixture down the wall, from top to bottom, one 5-10 foot section at a time.

Do not allow the acid to sit on the plaster for very long. Usually 30 seconds is plenty sufficient. Use an acid brush to scrub the surfaces and move the acid around. Rinse quickly and thoroughly.

Phase 4: Once the acid wash has been completed, make sure the pool surface is rinsed completely - don’t take any chances here.  Acid that sits on plaster/pebble too long can “burn” or etch the surface.

Also try to prevent the acid from wearing a channel path from shallow end to deep end. This can create a worn stripe on the floor.  If this does happen, make sure it’s quickly neutralized.

If the 50/50 solution isn’t strong enough, you can increase the acid strength or the hang time (before rinsing), or scrub harder. To maximize the effectiveness of the process you can also repeat the acid wash twice using the same strength mixture.

The surface, however, should be completely hosed down before the second wash.  You don’t want to damage or “burn” the plaster.

After the acid wash, the bottom of the pool will be filled with a foamy, acid puddle. This needs to be neutralized before pumping out. A good rule of thumb is to use 2 lbs of soda ash per 1 gallon of acid used.

Broadcast the ash over the puddle while stirring with a pool brush on a pole. Use a small submersible pump with a hose to pump out the remaining acid water. Be careful where you pump it to. Even if properly neutralized, it may destroy plants, grass, animals, etc.

** You’ll end up with a puddle at the deep end of the pool - make sure this acid is neutralized and use lots of water as you’re pumping it out.  It can leave an “acid ring” on the perimeter of where the water sits.

Don’t rush the job and be safe. The fumes can be very strong, and very dangerous.

Phase 5: Let’s clean up.  Spray off before exiting the pool. If you do get acid in your eyes, rinse for 10-15 minutes - if the burning persists, consult your physician or visit the hospital.  Make sure there’s another person around when you’re completing this project.

Acid on the skin won’t usually burn too much (unless it’s over a cut or scrape), just rinse quickly, until the burning goes away.

If your pool is vinyl lined, acid is not used. Detergents, conditioners and good ‘ol elbow grease will remove the “slime”. The liner must then be “reset” with a vacuum to ensure proper fit during filling. Also, be sure not to completely drain the vinyl pool.  There can be problems getting the liner to reset properly, and there is also the possibility of the caving in (you don’t want that).

Although pool companies will vary in price for this service, some rough numbers are as follows:

1. Drain = $125.00
2. Acid Wash = $125-200 (depending on condition of surface)
3. Start up chemicals = $75-150 (depending on size of pool)

Total = $325 and up.

You can do this yourself for under $125 - using the chemicals referenced above and start up chemicals (salt (if you have a salt pool), liquid chlorine, shock, conditioner).

Many may choose to hire a company to do this after seeing the process - the most important thing is to be safe and make sure it’s done properly.  If you choose to hire someone or a company, be sure to watch them so next time you can do it yourself.

And that’s how you acid wash a swimming pool.

All the best,

Terry

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Can one really reduce calcium levels in their pool water? 

It’s a good question and there’s quite a bit of debate in the industry whether chelating or sequestering agents really work…

Let’s see if we can break it down in further detail.

First let’s identity what calcium hardness really means.

Total hardness in a pool is essentially a total measurement of all the dissolved minerals such as calcium, magnesium and sodium. It is possible to have other minerals enter the water, but for the sake of simplicity, I’ll keep it at the most common.

Most in the pool industry use calcium hardness as a reference in pool water chemistry.

When calcium hardness reaches anything over about 400 ppm, bad things can take place.  This is when water can become aggressive or nonreactive, excessive scaling can take place not only on the tile line, but it can also cause issues in plumbing and equipment as well.

So, the best solution is to keep it between 200 and 400 ppm. On the low side, erosion can take place with plaster, grout, it can cause rust as well.

If the range here isn’t dialed in appropriately unpleasant things take place.

There are 2 primary causes of high calcium levels…

1.  Fill water - some water naturally has high amounts of calcium (make sure you’re testing if you drain/refill your pool with city or well water. )  If you’re planning on draining your pool, make sure you test your water source prior to doing so.  Some parts of the country are much worse than others.

2.  Chemicals.  Many chemicals that ones adds to their pool contain high amounts of calcium.  One very common example is calcium hypochlorite.  This is contained in most chlorine products (although you can get calcium free chlorine as well).  Certainly, this can contribute to the calcium levels in your pool.

Think of a glass of tea (bare with my lame analogy here ok? 

You add a pack or two of sugar or your favorite substitute and the tea absorbs it…no big deal.

What happens as you continue adding more packets…slowly, the tea can’t handle the addition.  Before too many packets, it begins building up at the bottom of the glass of tea.

Your pool is no different.

Solution Time:

There’s a couple of options to consider…

1.  I’m a big fan of draining the water every few years (if you have a vinyl pool or fiberglass, backwash it down several times to the skimmer over a few weeks to replace half or more of the water).  Every 3 years or so, can prevent this from becoming an issue.  Let’s say one spends about $125 to refill a pool.  This beats the pants off compared to what can take place if nothing is done.  If you have no calcium hardness issues, don’t drain - no sense in an unnecessary expense.  Let test results tell you what to do.

2.  There are numerous chelating or sequestering products on the market that can reduce calcium levels.  Well…sort of.  With current technology, the calcium doesn’t necessarily “remove” itself from the pool.  It essentially bonds with the chelating agent to create the desired end result.

Not all of these products are created equally.  Most pool retailers carry various “calcium reducers”.  I haven’t found them to be completely effective, but they will bring down calcium levels.

Hope this helps shedding some light on this subject.

Be well,

Terry

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Chemicals | 2 Comments »

As the swim season rapidly approaches, here’s a few basic guidelines to follow as you open up your swimming pool.  It seems like a pretty hefty process, but when we break things down - there’s a few important steps to follow.  If you have any specific questions or if you have a unique situation, don’t hesitate to shoot me an email through support…

I hope you enjoy these basic steps!

Phase 1: remove the cover. If there are leaves or other debris on the cover, use your leaf net to remove them (or use a blower for quick results if you have a lot of debris).

Phase 2: Then pump off any standing water if you have a solid cover. Note: if your cover has a hole in it, you will be pumping water out of the pool. This can lead to draining the pool if you do not watch for this.

Phase 3:  After removing the cover, be sure to clean it, place it out in the sun so it can dry and store it.

Phase 4: Bring up the water level up to its normal operating level.

Phase 5: Remove any freeze plugs, gadgets or other items taht you may have used to protect against freezing.

Phase 6: If you didn’t clean your filter when you closed it last year, now is a good time to do so.

Phase 7: Turn on the equipment.  The pump may need a “kick start”.  If it doesn’t start up right away, remove the pump lid (be careful here…the air is compressed in the lines/equipment) and use a garden hose (or bucket of water) to fill up the pump - then quickly replace lid and turn on the equipment.  It’s important to eliminate all the air from the plumbing and equipment. Warning: Air will be compressed during this procedure.

Phase 8: Do a thorough check on the equipment, check for any leaks, filter pressure and check return side water pressure.

Phase 9: Now, let’s go check out the pool itself. Hopefully, you had a solid cover on and the water is as clear and blue as when you closed it. If not, let’s remove any large debris in the water.

Phase 10: Vac to waste any dirt, algae, or other small debris.

Phase 11: Let’s check out the water chemistry and get things dialed in…

* Please don’t start off by throwing a bunch of chlorine or other chemicals into the water. Don’t go crazy here and run the risk of damaging and/or stain your pool surface.
* Allow the water to circulate at least 6 hours, so that the water that was added has time to mix with the water in the pool.
* After 6 hours do a thorough test and adjust accordingly.

Phase 12. Install any ladders and misc items that had been removed.

Phase 13: Do a perimeter check - inspect the ladder (look for any cracks, awkwardness in spring, rust, etc).  Check out the tile line for any residue, gunk or calcium - a little bit of Arm And Hammer with a sponge can help eliminate any “scum” line - use a pumice stick if you have some calcium buildup - I know…It’s quite a bit of work, but it works.  You can also look into getting a glass bead tile clean (typically runs about $4.00 per linear foot and can vary depending on severity of buildup).

Hope this helps!

All the best,

Terry

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Uncategorized | 13 Comments »

When it comes to choosing what kit is right for you there are no shortage of options available on the market.

There are a lot of good swimming pool testing kits that you can get without breaking the bank.  I’m not a huge fan of test strips as they can be difficult to intrepret the results, however, if you have a digital reader (like this one made by Aquachek), they can be a solid solution for your testing needs.

Depending on your budget, you can easily spend several hundred dollars on a water testing kit - I don’t think that’s necessary for residential environments or the typical swimming pool owner.  If you manage commercial properties (where liability/responsibility is much greater), these more expensive options make quite a bit of sense.

Generally speaking I prefer Taylor Testing Kits and specifically their K-2005 model.  You can gather more information right here.  It’s a great testing kit and the one that I personally used for years.  I also had my service techs using this solution - on their site it runs about $61.00 (at the time of writing this). I did find it on ebay.com for $51.95 (that included shipping as well) - it was a “buy now” auction.

It’s a great kit for the “day to day” swimming pool owner looking to adequately take care of their pool.

Although there are a lot of reputable kits on the market - many I have personally used and can vouch for, many I have not personally used.  If there’s one thing that’s really important here, it’s when you’re shopping for a water testing kit, stick with a reputable manufacturer.  Someone who’s been around a while and see if you can find a few online reviews on it.

The Taylor test kit is ideal for residential (and can be used for commercial pools as well) as it accurately tests for the most common items found in water.  It is not the cheapest available, but it is the only kit you’ll ever need and you can purchase reagents directly online from numerous retails or from Taylor Technologies as well.  They’ve carried Taylor Test kits since 1930 and it’s evolved quite a bit as they’ve improved and expanded their product line to meet consumer/industrial demand over the years.

Why the Taylor Test Kit deserves your attention:

1.  Comes with a very informative user guide that shows you exactly how to do each test and why each these tests are necessary.

2.  Easy to use - with many kits it can be difficult getting the right amount of water to sample - not a problem with their kits.

3.  Easy to interpret the results.

4.  Sturdy, rigid case.  Well protected.

Stick with a proven company here…kits are not all created equally.  I would not shop on price alone.  Many times we get what we pay for.  This is one of those times.  If you go to your local grocery store and spend $5.00 on a test kit, you’ll pay for it in one way or another - inaccurate results (which can lead to unnecessary chems) as well as frustration and your sanity.

Stick with a proven and reputable brand…here are a few names that are well known and respected within the industry:  AquaChek, Taylor Technologies, AquaChem, BioGuard, Omni, LaMotte, Robarb, HTH, and Guardex to name a few.

All the best,

Terry

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Safety Tips, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »

Many of you have asked over the past year or more if I had an affiliate program.  I did allow others to market my products, however, it was very much “underground” and I never really promoted it.  I didn’t have a solid system in place to track sales, commissions, etc…

Well, that problem has now been resolved.  The affiliate program is officially up, live and ready for you to partake in. It doesn’t cost you a single dime and you make 50% (and more) for each product that you sale.

Find out full details and get signed up (for FREE) at:  www.fireyourpoolguy.com/affiliate.

If you’ve never marketed before online, don’t worry.  I’ve created a mini training course to get you up to speed as quickly possible.  Get registered as an affiliate right here.  Again, there is absolutely no cost to you.

I recognize that during tough economic times, people are looking to make a few bucks…even if it was an extra $500 a month.  Would that help you?

This program can help make that become a reality.

Have a great week.

Terry

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