Your pool water is looking fantastic — clear, odorless and seemingly in perfect shape for you (your family and your friends) to enjoy a swim.  Then for reasons you just can’t seem to figure out, you start getting that icky white foam and scum  starting to form on the surface of the water.  Does anything kill the look of your beautiful crystal clear water more quickly?

Sure, you could skim the pool surface.  You could “clean it up.”  The real question, though, is what is causing it to appear in the first place . . . and how can you keep it from making a return engagement during your next pool party?

White foam appearing on the water surface is usually caused by one of three things (or a combination of them):

1.  Low Calcium

2.  High levels of polymer based chemicals (e.g., biguanides, polyquat algaedcides, some clarifiers)

3.  An air leak in the system  (MOST common cause!)

Among these three possible causes, the foam formation on your pool is likely caused by either the type of algaecides you’ve added to the pool water OR by an air leak in the system.

So what is the solution?  There are really two ways to fix this problem:  Change the type of algaecide you are using AND/OR check and fix any air leak issues.

How do you know which one (or both) of these is necessary?  And do you do one of these . . . or both?  To know the answer to these questions, you need to understand how they both work and how they relate to the problem.

Some algaecides sold at places like Walmart etc can cause foaming when too much is used.  Some algeacides, known as linear quats and containing the ingredient “Alkyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride,” will tend to foam.

The level of foaming these will cause, however, tends not to be excessive and is fairly inconspicuous.  So this is not usually the primary cause of your problem.

If you have a vinyl pool, foaming will also tend to occur in pools that don’t have enough calcium in them.  Raising the Calcium Hardness (CH) to at least 100-150 ppm usually does the trick.

On the algaecide issue, try using PolyQuat 60 algaecide.  This is a situation of “you get what you pay for” since the linear quats are less expensive than the polyquat.  Algaecide eventually breaks down, though it will take over a week (that’s why they are added on a weekly basis). Shocking with chlorine will speed up the breakdown process.

If you do have an air leak in the return lines, it can lead to a higher level of pool water foaming and the creation of unacceptable water conditions.  This is not only the primary cause of your foam problem, but something you need to address right away.

In terms of checking for a possible air leak, there are a number of things to check for with this.  First, check the water level in the skimmer and make sure it’s not taking air.  Also make sure the return (eyeball) is pointed towards pool floor and away from the skimmer.  Next, check the hoses and clamps.  Then check the plumbing fitting.  Next check the pump strainer lid for cracks chips.  Finally check the strainer o-ring.  Remember an air leak is going to be on the suction side (at the nipple going into the pump) not the discharge side.

While an anti-foam can help, when you have an air leak your problem is more more mechanical in nature, and you need to fix it!  The good news is that this is not usually a major problem, and can be controlled and eliminated with the use of cleaning agents or enzyme products.

Address the root causes of your foam problems, and not only will you no longer have to deal with it . . . you’ll be done with it!

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Uncategorized | 9 Comments »

Check out this quick video on how to winterize your swimming pool.  The sound quality isn’t great - I messed up with the volume settings.  Sorry about that, but it’s still GREAT content.  

“The 9 Things Necessary To Successfully Winterize A Swimming Pool”

Click Here For The Industry’s Leading
Resource To Winterize Your Pool

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Safety Tips, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »

Already?

Incredible.  Seems like just a few weeks ago we were getting ready to open the pool and enjoy another season of basking in the sun!  For many of you, closing the pool is right around the corner (depending on where you’re located).

If you’re one who winterizes your pool…this step-by-step tutorial will come in handy.  Big time.  Also, if you haven’t grabbed the leading source for hand holding instructions on winterizing your pool, I’d highly recommend heading on over to www.yourpooltips.com/winter.

Without doubt, it’s the industry’s leading source of the most valuable, accurate and money saving winterizing information on the planet.

It’s full of useful information that will save you a ton of cash…and frustration as well.

Here are some general pointers on winterizing your pool that are sure to help!

1. Balance the water chemistry:

Approximately 3 - 7 days prior to closing the pool, adjust your water balance within the ranges below:

o pH: 7.4 - 7.6

o Alkalinity: 80 - 120 ppm

o Calcium Hardness: 180 - 220 ppm

Then, shock the pool with a Chlorine Shock or a Non-Chlorine Shock, at least 1lb per 10,000 gallons (follow package directions). Allow the chlorine level to return to 1.0 - 3.0 ppm before adding any winter algaecide and your pool cover. Chlorine can often break down both algaecides and [floating] pool covers.

2. Remove skimmer baskets, wall fittings, cleaners, solar blankets, ladders from the pool.

Put these in a safe location during the winter. Don’t coil pool cleaners hoses tight.

3. Lower water level in pool.

Using the filter pump, or a submersible pump, lower the level 12″ - 18″ below the skimmer for mesh covers, and 3″ - 6″ below the tile for solid, floating covers. If you are using an Aquador skimmer cover on aboveground or inground pools for some vinyl lined pools, the water level will not need to be lowered.

4. Drain all pumping, filtering, heating and chlorinating equipment.

Every pump, filter, heater and chlorinator has drain plugs to allow water to drain out. All water must be drained or blown out or it will freeze and crack. After draining, D.E. filter grids or Cartridge filters should be removed and cleaned thoroughly. If the filter and pump is small enough to remove it and store it indoors, this may be desirable. If not, using a small amount of air from a shop vacuum, compressor or Mighty Vac is good to blow out any water that may still be in the equipment.

5. Lubricate

Fall closing of the pool is a good time to lubricate the pump lid o-ring o-rings with Magic Lube. If you have a push-pull valve (also known as a slide valve) on the filter, lubricate it’s o-rings as well. If you have a gas heater with cast iron plugs, lubricate these threads or leave the plugs in after draining to prevent rusting.

6. Clean pool

Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best. Also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly. The pool should be as clean and clear as possible before covering.

7. Winterize the plumbing to and from the pool

If you have an inground pool, you should blow out the lines using a wet/dry vacuum to blow air from the skimmer, through the equipment, and back to the pool. Then plug the lines at the pool using expansion plugs. If you don’t blow the lines, add Swimming Pool Antifreeze into the line (follow package directions). Above ground pools usually just need to disconnect the hoses to and from the pump and filter, and plug the wall outlets.

8. Add winterizing algaecide and other floaters.

Remember not to add algaecide and shock at the same time. This tends to result in the chlorine breaking down the algaecide. High chlorine levels can also be harsh to floating solid pool covers.

9. Cover the pool.

A tight fit of your pool cover is essential. Your cover should not have holes or gaps where leaves and debris may enter the pool. A mesh safety cover provides the highest protection and safety. Solid pool covers are not safe and will require a cover pump or siphon to remove rain water and snow melt. Water Bags or AquaBloks are used to secure an inground solid pool cover. Above ground pool covers use a cable/winch device to secure the cover around the pool. Air Pillows are used in above ground pools to absorb the expansion of ice inside the pool. In areas of high wind, an above ground pool owner will find wall bags or cover seal useful products. A leaf net is very useful if you have a lot of trees surrounding your pool.

Warmer States:

In areas where it rarely gets below freezing temperatures, many people simply reduce the amount of filtration time per day, and also will find that the pool needs fewer chemicals. Covering the pool, even if not winterizing, will reduce cleaning and chemical and filtering demand even further.

I truly hope this information finds you well.

All the best,

Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Uncategorized | No Comments »

If you’re an above ground swimming pool owner I’ve got some exciting news for you.  Over the past several years I’ve had a ton of requests asking, “Do you have information specifically for above ground pool owners?”

Well (now), the answer is a resounding YES!  And best of all, these above ground pool maintenance tips are 100% FREE.  Enjoy.

Grab Them Right Here…

Here’s just a few of the items I’ll be sharing:

- My proven 3 part system to save 53% (or more) on chemicals.

- The secrets to maintaining a perfect above ground pool by taking less than 7 minutes per week!

- My “no sweat”, 4 step process to turn a green swimming pool into a sparkling oasis – and have your friends and family doing double takes at how breathtaking your pool looks.

- The TOP items you need to be concerned about to get and permanently maintain flawless water chemistry.

- My weekly “checklist” that shows you exactly what to do and how to do it – no more headaches and frustration. Just follow my cheat sheet!

- And a whole bunch of other SUPER COOL stuff too!

Grab Your FREE Goodies Here!

All the best,

Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Safety Tips, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »

Over the past few weeks, the most common email questions I’ve been receiving have been related to pH and TA – and understanding their relationship.  They really are very close “cousins” and the relationship is pretty interesting.

Today, we’re going to discuss EXACTLY how the relationship works so you have a better understanding.

IMPORTANT:  I also have a MAJOR announcement for SPA owners that I’ll get to at the bottom of this message.

Let’s dig deeper for a better understanding…

However, the relation ship between pH and total alkalinity (TA) is the most instrumental one that resides in your body of water…

If the total alkalinity is in the right range, pH won’t be so volatile.  If your pH is bouncing, chances are the TA is too low.  TA is the real driving force to controlling the pH.

If a service tech or do it “yourselfer” doesn’t understand this relationship, poor water balance can result.

TA is the governor of pH.    Don’t try to change the pH unless the TA is in the right range. The first correction is always TA…then you address any pH issue. And you may never have to change it if the TA is OK.

Here’s a look at exactly what pH and TA are, how they relate and interact and what service techs can do to keep it all under control.

What is pH?

Let’s go back to High School chemistry class (I’ll keep it painless and I promise there’s no test at the end).

pH is defined as a measure of water’s acidity or alkalinity. This is done by determining the power of hydrogen ions (H+) in the water. These ions are measured on a logarithmic scale from 0-14, with 0 being the most acidic and 14 the most basic or alkaline.

In simplified terms, pH is actually counting how many hydrogen ions are in the water.

Ideally, one is shooting for 7.4 to 7.6, slightly on the base side of neutral. This is a comfortable range for humans as well as the optimal pH range for chlorine to do its job.

Keep in mind that extraneous factors from both people and Mother Nature can alter pH levels. Things such as pool parties with high bather loads or heavy rainstorms, especially when the rain tends to be on the acidic side, all have an impact. In the wake of such events, we need to check water chemistry variables as soon as possible.

If the pH is allowed to dip below the 7.2 minimum standard, the water becomes more acidic or, as it is sometimes known, aggressive. This can lead to equipment corrosion, pool surface damage and inefficient sanitizer use.

If the pH rises above the 8.3 level, the pool may experience scale and high turbidity. In either case, skin and eye irritation can be an end result here.

It is important to monitor pH levels because the number drastically impacts the Saturation Index equation - a formula used to diagnose water’s chemical balance.

When the pH changes (for any reason),so does the Saturation Index.

That’s because although both TA and pH figure into the Saturation index, pH has a larger impact on it.

For example, a TA reading of 150 ppm uses a factor of 2.2 in the formula. A reading of 200 ppm is represented by a factor of 2.3. In fact, TA ranges from100 to 300 ppm are represented by factors ranging only from 2.0 to 2.5.Consequently, it takes a major shift in TA ppm to affect the results of the Saturation Index formula.

On the other hand, the Saturation Index uses the actual pH reading in the formula - not a factor–so the change in the pH will have a profound effect on the outcome.

Whatever the pH changes, the index will change in the exact same amount. It’s a 1:1 factor.  If you want to change the Saturation Index, lower or raise the pH.

When pH levels stray, most employ muriatic acid to lower it and sodium bicarbonate or soda ash to raise it.

However, it’s not always that simple. If all the variables are not in their proper ranges as well, particularly total alkalinity, it can be difficult keeping the pH within ideal limits.

The TA/pH relationship:

Total alkalinity has an important relationship with pH in swimming pool water. But first, what exactly is TA?

Total alkalinity is essentially a natural buffering system that helps to stabilize pH readings.  If pH is counting how many hydrogen ions in the water, TA is counting how many things in the water are capable of absorbing hydrogen.

Simply put, total alkalinity is made up of things that can take on hydrogen.

At higher pH ranges, total alkalinity is the combined presence of hydroxide ions (OH-),carbonate ions (CO3) and bicarbonate ions (HCO3).

However, in swimming pools and hot tubs, where the pH range shouldn’t stray too far from the recommended mid 7 range, TA remains strictly a bicarbonate.

TA is nearly 100 percent bicarbonate in pools unless the pH is in the 9.0range or better.  You can define TA as the sum of alkaline salts and, in essence, to simplify things…the primary one is bicarbonate.

When TA levels are too high or too low, it affects overall water balance. For example, with water that has very low TA levels, the pH is under stabilized and will change dramatically whenever even small additions of chemical are made.

Water becomes more corrosive to plaster and metal fittings and heater elements. In conditions of excessive bicarbonate alkalinity, the pH is overstabilized and tends to remain around 8.3. The pH level is likely to bounce back to the 8.3 range even after acid is added. With TA and pH in such high ranges, dull, turbid water also can result.

I truly hope this pH and TA “overview” helps manage this interesting relationship – it can be a complicated one. I’ve really tried to break it down to something that isn’t terribly technical so it can be better understood.

ANNOUNCEMENT (BRAND NEW AND 100% F-R-E-E!):

I’ve had quite a few requests from spa owners for information that specifically pertains to just spa.  Your wish is finally true.  After months In the works I’ve compiled a TON of useful information that will help you out BIG TIME.

Best of all…the tips and content I’m sharing are 100% F-R-E-E!

Grab Your Spa Tips Here For F-R-E-E!

I won’t keep this page up forever, but now it’s yours for the taking.  Hop on over and discover proven strategies and “tricks of the trade” to save a ton of cash and time while maintaining your spa…

You’re going to thoroughly enjoy the information.

Grab Your FREE Spa Tips Right Here…

All the best,
Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 4 Comments »

If you’ve been struggling with your balancing your water chemistry, this quick tidbit should help you…

Let’s face it - no one likes to play the role of “mad scientist” and who enjoys chemistry anyway?

Well, fortunately, a pool owner doesn’t have to play any of those roles, but we do need to know some basics when it comes to maintaining our water. OK, so what are the most important elements to manage water chemistry effectively…and, without breaking the bank?

I like to call these “Core Components”. These are really the stepping stones for most of what takes place in your pool water - managing these items effectively creates a much more enjoyable swim season and will save you money too…

Let’s dig in: “Core Components To Successful Water Chemistry”

1. Free Chlorine - pretty obvious. Not much commentary necessary here. No pathogens/bacteria = reduced/eliminated algae flare ups.

2. Total Alkalinity. One could call this the “heart” of their water chemistry. Perhaps even the most important single element of proper chemistry because so many things in your water can be impacted by this one variable. Ideally, this should be between 80 and 120 ppm (only varying a bit based upon the surface of your pool), and is essentially a measure of the ability of a solution to neutralize hydrogen ions.

Total alkalinity is the result of alkaline materials including carbonates, bicarbonates and hydroxides - mostly bicarbonates.

Putting aside all the “technical jargon”, TA is essentially a “buffer” to keep the pH from swinging wildly all over the place. If it’s too low it can cause the pH to change rapidly…ultimately causing “etching” and corrosion. Too high and you can get cloudy water, the pH becomes difficult to adjust and can reduce the effectiveness of chlorine (and other sanitizers as well).

3. The 3rd and final “Core Component” is…you got it, pH. This is essentially a measurement of the amount or strength of hydrogen in your pool water. It also can cause a reaction to practically every other area of your water when it gets out of whack.

Without getting too technical here, let’s break down the process just a bit of what pH really is…

(bare with me as I throw my pocket protector on real quick)…

It indicates the relative acidity or basicity of pool water. pH is measured on a scale of 0 (strong acid) to 14 (strong base) with 7 being the neutral pH. Ideally, you’d like to see it within the range of 7.4-7.6.

When the pH is too low, the water becomes acidic, your residual chlorine loses its effectiveness rapidly, etching can take place, corrosion of equipment can take place and your TA is impacted.

Too high and the chlorine also becomes inefficient, scale can take place on the tile line and pool surface and you may experience cloudy water.

What’s the bottom line here…

Be proactive on especially these 3 items - the outcomes of these being out of whack can take days to correct and also force you to spend on items that easily could have been avoided.

I truly hope you’ve enjoyed this piece on “Core Components”.

All the best,

Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 5 Comments »

How much are you spending per hour to run your swimming pool equipment?  This chart will give tell you exactly what you’re spending on your swimming pool electricity (unless you’ve gone through a fairly recent price adjustment).

This is another interesting chart (courtesy of k12e3.org) where you can see for the typical pool owner, the electricy cost of running their pool is 2nd to only a spa/pump heater.

Filed under: General Information, Uncategorized | No Comments »