How To Remove Calcium Buildup From Your Swimming Pool
How To Eliminate Calcium Deposits From Your Swimming Pool…
If you are experiencing a calcium buildup (scale) along the water line of your pool there are a few things to consider doing.
1. Keep the calcium harness levels below 350 PPM. If it gets beyond this, drain the pool down (not a fiberglass) half way and replace the water. There are sequestering agents available to reduce calcium levels, however, they’re not cheap.
2. Keep your pH levels between 7.4 and 7.8. Keeping your chems in check will drastically prolong the amount of time it takes to accumulate calcium buildup.
Here’s where “manual” labor kicks in…
1. For a fiberglass pool grab a polyblend brush (wire brush for plaster or pebble).
2. Take muriatic acid and mix with water - 2 parts acid to 1 part water.
3. “Sponge” the solution directly on the calcium deposit. It will run into the water itself - no big deal.
4. Take your brush and begin brushing off the calcium - the thicker and longer it’s been there, the more difficult it will be to remove. Key here is once you begin seeing the white, chalky buildup, eliminate it before the calcium deposit gets out of hand. You may also want to use a razor…
I’ve also been really happy with other alternatives such as glass bead, epsom salts and sand blasting calcium removal methods - they work like a champ, however, it can be a costly process (most companies charge between $3 and $5 per foot - this is gauged upon the perimeter of the pool).
Both of these methods are designed for plaster and pebble surfaces, however, epsom salts should be safe for a fiberglass surface without any issues (make sure they “test” a small area first as I have not used epsom on a fiberglass pool).
Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Chemicals
I have an in-ground vinyl lined pool. The only metal in contact with the water is a stainless steel ladder. All other parts are either polymer, plastic or are coated to prevent corrosion as with the heat exchanger in the heat pump. Why do I need to worry about hardness levels? There is nothing for softer water to attack. No gunite or metals. Doesn’t calcium hardness simply add to your TDS levels, which in turn adversely affects your chemical levels…as with chlorine? Am I missing something?
Good question…
TDS and calcium hardness go hand in hand…
The primary issue is that when either one (or both) are high, the water becomes aggressive or nonreactive. So, you continue dumping more and more chemicals in the water only to have a minimal impact - the end result is adding more chems than necessary to get things into alignment (and throwing money away).
Hope this helps.
Terry
What would U suggest to clear/clean
calcium buildup on exterior of Sand Filter,
w/o damaging equipment?
Hi Wyn,
Use a metal small brush…similiar to what you use to scrub algae. If this by itself does not eliminate the calcium buildup, use a muriatic solution with water and scrub. Should have no problems removing the calcium buildup.
Cheers.
Terry
I have a fibre glass swiming pool and my calcium harness level is 1000ppm. How can I lower this to under 300ppm? I also have a salt chlorinater connected to my system.
Good question…
There are a few directions to help bring it down. With a fiberglass pool, draining is not an option, however, one could backwash it down to the skimmer several times over a few weeks to dilute the water…bringing down calcium levels.
You can also treat the water by using tri-sodium phosphate.
Best,
Terry
How about calcium buildup on the plaster? The local pool company told me that an acid wash would damage the plaster and would not remove the rough calcium. Is this true?
Good question Fritz…
Typically, an acid bath can remove calcium buildup from the plaster - it takes some elbow grease. Don’t be afraid to use a firm brush. There’s a lot of variables here…if it’s too thick and been there for some time, it may require a glass bead treatment.
This is very effective and runs about $4/per linear foot of the pool - this can vary a little depending in different parts of the country.
The entire purpose of an acid wash is to strip a very thin layer of plaster from the surface…exposing a new, fresh layer of plaster. So, yes this can, over time, damage plaster (it reduces it’s “thickness”) - an acid wash can safely be done several times without requiring a replaster.
(which is pretty expensive).
Hope this helps.
Terry
We have a plaster pool. The hardness has gone up from 400 to 500 from 3 weeks ago after superclorination and algeacide treatment after the rain. What is the best way for me to lower the hardness at this time, except from draining the pool. Last year it was always within range, in fact it was even low first part of the year. Does the granular shock ever raises the build up of calcium?
Good question May,
Unfortunately, there’s really no effective way to reduce calcium hardness other than draining pool (or a partial drain or even backwash several times over a week period).
Hypochlorite contains calcium…contributing to what you’re experiencing.
Terry
Is there a way to clean calcium from tile on the pool without going to the expense of bead blasting can you use a solution of muriatic solution
thank You
Hi Inge,
The answer is yet, but my response probably thrill you…
I would recommend using a pumice stick. It’s labor, but that’s the trade off to save some $$
All the best,
You mentioned using tri-sodium phosphate in an earlier post. Can it be used in a quartz pool to reduce calcium hardness? If so, in what proportions? Do the particles just remain suspended increasing the TDS?
Thank you!
Hi Renee,
When trisodium phosphate is added, it essentially bonds with the calcium (or TDS) in the water. The net effect is to neutralize the material to avoid the pitfalls calcium brings to a body of water when it’s elevated. It can be used in a quartz pool without any issues.
Best,
Terry
I like your straight forward, common sense, answers. Thanks.
Many thanks Chris.
Terry