Knowing the amount of water in your pool is very important.  Not only do you need to know how many gallons your pool holds but, more importantly, you need to know how much water is in your pool so that you can properly calculate and apply pool chemicals.

As you probably all are aware, making a small error in your pool chemical measurements can equal a BIG problem with your pool water (not to mention a BIG headache for you to fix it).  Calculating pool volume is not difficult once you know how to do it.

So here is a simple quick guide on how to make it happen…

In order to figure out proper doses of chemicals for your pool, you need to determine how many gallons of water it holds. To do that, you need to know four different numbers: (1) the length, (2) the width, (3) the average depth, and (4) a multiplier that determines gallons.

In general, here is the formula to calculate the number of gallons your pool holds:

LENGTH x WIDTH x AVERAGE DEPTH x MULTIPLIER = GALLONS

There are also more specific formulas for calculating volume depending on what shape pool you have.  Here are those formulas:

Rectangular Or Square Swimming Pools:

Length (in feet) X Width (in feet) X Average Water Depth (in feet) X 7.5 = Pool Volume in Gallons (U.S.)

- or -

Length (Meters) X Width (Meters) X Average Water Depth (Meters) X 1000 = Pool Volume in Liters

Circular Swimming Pools:

Diameter (in feet) X Diameter (in feet) X Average Water Depth (in feet) X 5.9 = Pool Volume in Gallons (U.S.)

-  or -

Diameter (Meters) X Diameter (Meters) X Average Water Depth (Meters) X 785 = Pool Volume in Liters

Oval Swimming Pools:

Long Diameter (in feet) X Short Diameter (in feet) X Average Water Depth (in feet) X 5.9 = Pool Volume in Gallons (U.S.)

- or -

Long Diameter (Meters) X Short Diameter (Meters) X Average Water Depth (Meters) X 785 = Pool Volume in Meters

Here is how you determine the multiplier:

Rectangle, square, or free-form pool: multiplier = 7.5.

Round or Oval pool: multiplier = 5.9

Here is how you determine the average depth in a pool where the bottom slopes:

Measure the shallow end depth.

Measure the deep end depth.

Add those two measurements together.

Divide the sum by two (2).

For example, if your shallow end is 2′ deep and your deep end is 10′ deep, then your calculation would look like this:

2′ + 10′ = 12′; 12′/2 = 6′ Average Depth

There is also a little download at http://www.filebuzz.com/fileinfo/21142/Kool_Swimming_Pool_Tool.html

(may need to copy/paste this into a browser)

This will do the calculations for you!  Just plug in the parameters and let it go to work for you.  Simple and FREE.

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If I told you that algae is one of the top (and most frequent) complaints of swimming pool owners, I am sure this would come as no surprise to you. Algae is pretty unsightly, causing you not to want to spend time in your pool (and not to want to invite anyone else to do so either). It can truly ruin your ability to enjoy your pool!

So is algae just algae, i.e., is all algae the same? Do you treat all algae the same way and, more importantly, can you get rid of the nasty stuff?

Let’s answer that first question first. Is all algae the same? In short, no.

There are actually over 20,000 species of algae known to man. Only a small fraction of these species, however, are seen in swimming pools. While algae certainly has an unappealing appearance, it is important to know that it does not cause disease.

The most common pool types of algae are black algae, blue-green algae, green algae and mustard algae. Pink algae or red algae-like organisms can be found, but are in fact bacteria.

Now that you know a little bit about algae, let’s talk about how to conquer it and how to be able to get rid of it quickly when it does appear. After all, while not illness-causing, unchecked algae growth can turn a swimming pool cloudy or make the pool water green.

It also results in foul odors and tastes. Black algae, which is more difficult to control than green or blue-green algae, can also stain the swimming pool’s walls and floor. Pretty unappetizing all the way around, right?

Before talking about how to “treat” or get rid of algae, let’s talk about how algae affects the pool chemicals and levels in your pool. When there is algae present in pool water, the chlorine is used up rapidly trying to combat its growth. This process has a tendency to raise the pH, thus decreasing the efficiency of the remaining free chlorine.

So I’m sure that leaves you with one big question: What should you do about it?

When it comes to algae, the prevention is always better than the cure.

Adequate levels of free chlorine will prevent algae from growing out of control. To keep pool water clean, bacteria-free, and safe for swimming, it must be sanitized. Sanitizing kills all microorganisms, including bacteria and algae, and removes unwanted contaminants from the water.

Super-chlorination, or “shocking” swimming pool water, prevents cloudy water, chlorine odor, and eye and skin irritation and is also a good idea in your prevention routine. Shock treatment with chlorine or an algaecide is recommended.

Prevention of algae before it grows is critical to keeping a swimming pool crystal clear and inviting. Maintaining proper sanitizer levels, shock treatments and superchlorination will help to prevent or destroy algae.

The best way to prevent algae is with a good algaecide or phosphate removal chemical. Algaecides perform best as a backup to a routine sanitation program. They also help to kill airborne spores as they blow into the pool.

Taking all these preventative measures, will not only keep unsightly algae from ruining your pool experience, but when algae growth is noticed, it requires harsh treatment. So stay on the offensive, and you can spend more time IN your pool (instead of getting nasty algae out of it).

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Uncategorized | No Comments »

Your pool water is looking fantastic — clear, odorless and seemingly in perfect shape for you (your family and your friends) to enjoy a swim.  Then for reasons you just can’t seem to figure out, you start getting that icky white foam and scum  starting to form on the surface of the water.  Does anything kill the look of your beautiful crystal clear water more quickly?

Sure, you could skim the pool surface.  You could “clean it up.”  The real question, though, is what is causing it to appear in the first place . . . and how can you keep it from making a return engagement during your next pool party?

White foam appearing on the water surface is usually caused by one of three things (or a combination of them):

1.  Low Calcium

2.  High levels of polymer based chemicals (e.g., biguanides, polyquat algaedcides, some clarifiers)

3.  An air leak in the system  (MOST common cause!)

Among these three possible causes, the foam formation on your pool is likely caused by either the type of algaecides you’ve added to the pool water OR by an air leak in the system.

So what is the solution?  There are really two ways to fix this problem:  Change the type of algaecide you are using AND/OR check and fix any air leak issues.

How do you know which one (or both) of these is necessary?  And do you do one of these . . . or both?  To know the answer to these questions, you need to understand how they both work and how they relate to the problem.

Some algaecides sold at places like Walmart etc can cause foaming when too much is used.  Some algeacides, known as linear quats and containing the ingredient “Alkyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride,” will tend to foam.

The level of foaming these will cause, however, tends not to be excessive and is fairly inconspicuous.  So this is not usually the primary cause of your problem.

If you have a vinyl pool, foaming will also tend to occur in pools that don’t have enough calcium in them.  Raising the Calcium Hardness (CH) to at least 100-150 ppm usually does the trick.

On the algaecide issue, try using PolyQuat 60 algaecide.  This is a situation of “you get what you pay for” since the linear quats are less expensive than the polyquat.  Algaecide eventually breaks down, though it will take over a week (that’s why they are added on a weekly basis). Shocking with chlorine will speed up the breakdown process.

If you do have an air leak in the return lines, it can lead to a higher level of pool water foaming and the creation of unacceptable water conditions.  This is not only the primary cause of your foam problem, but something you need to address right away.

In terms of checking for a possible air leak, there are a number of things to check for with this.  First, check the water level in the skimmer and make sure it’s not taking air.  Also make sure the return (eyeball) is pointed towards pool floor and away from the skimmer.  Next, check the hoses and clamps.  Then check the plumbing fitting.  Next check the pump strainer lid for cracks chips.  Finally check the strainer o-ring.  Remember an air leak is going to be on the suction side (at the nipple going into the pump) not the discharge side.

While an anti-foam can help, when you have an air leak your problem is more more mechanical in nature, and you need to fix it!  The good news is that this is not usually a major problem, and can be controlled and eliminated with the use of cleaning agents or enzyme products.

Address the root causes of your foam problems, and not only will you no longer have to deal with it . . . you’ll be done with it!

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Check out this quick video on how to winterize your swimming pool.  The sound quality isn’t great - I messed up with the volume settings.  Sorry about that, but it’s still GREAT content.  

“The 9 Things Necessary To Successfully Winterize A Swimming Pool”

Click Here For The Industry’s Leading
Resource To Winterize Your Pool

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Safety Tips, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »

Already?

Incredible.  Seems like just a few weeks ago we were getting ready to open the pool and enjoy another season of basking in the sun!  For many of you, closing the pool is right around the corner (depending on where you’re located).

If you’re one who winterizes your pool…this step-by-step tutorial will come in handy.  Big time.  Also, if you haven’t grabbed the leading source for hand holding instructions on winterizing your pool, I’d highly recommend heading on over to www.yourpooltips.com/winter.

Without doubt, it’s the industry’s leading source of the most valuable, accurate and money saving winterizing information on the planet.

It’s full of useful information that will save you a ton of cash…and frustration as well.

Here are some general pointers on winterizing your pool that are sure to help!

1. Balance the water chemistry:

Approximately 3 - 7 days prior to closing the pool, adjust your water balance within the ranges below:

o pH: 7.4 - 7.6

o Alkalinity: 80 - 120 ppm

o Calcium Hardness: 180 - 220 ppm

Then, shock the pool with a Chlorine Shock or a Non-Chlorine Shock, at least 1lb per 10,000 gallons (follow package directions). Allow the chlorine level to return to 1.0 - 3.0 ppm before adding any winter algaecide and your pool cover. Chlorine can often break down both algaecides and [floating] pool covers.

2. Remove skimmer baskets, wall fittings, cleaners, solar blankets, ladders from the pool.

Put these in a safe location during the winter. Don’t coil pool cleaners hoses tight.

3. Lower water level in pool.

Using the filter pump, or a submersible pump, lower the level 12″ - 18″ below the skimmer for mesh covers, and 3″ - 6″ below the tile for solid, floating covers. If you are using an Aquador skimmer cover on aboveground or inground pools for some vinyl lined pools, the water level will not need to be lowered.

4. Drain all pumping, filtering, heating and chlorinating equipment.

Every pump, filter, heater and chlorinator has drain plugs to allow water to drain out. All water must be drained or blown out or it will freeze and crack. After draining, D.E. filter grids or Cartridge filters should be removed and cleaned thoroughly. If the filter and pump is small enough to remove it and store it indoors, this may be desirable. If not, using a small amount of air from a shop vacuum, compressor or Mighty Vac is good to blow out any water that may still be in the equipment.

5. Lubricate

Fall closing of the pool is a good time to lubricate the pump lid o-ring o-rings with Magic Lube. If you have a push-pull valve (also known as a slide valve) on the filter, lubricate it’s o-rings as well. If you have a gas heater with cast iron plugs, lubricate these threads or leave the plugs in after draining to prevent rusting.

6. Clean pool

Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best. Also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly. The pool should be as clean and clear as possible before covering.

7. Winterize the plumbing to and from the pool

If you have an inground pool, you should blow out the lines using a wet/dry vacuum to blow air from the skimmer, through the equipment, and back to the pool. Then plug the lines at the pool using expansion plugs. If you don’t blow the lines, add Swimming Pool Antifreeze into the line (follow package directions). Above ground pools usually just need to disconnect the hoses to and from the pump and filter, and plug the wall outlets.

8. Add winterizing algaecide and other floaters.

Remember not to add algaecide and shock at the same time. This tends to result in the chlorine breaking down the algaecide. High chlorine levels can also be harsh to floating solid pool covers.

9. Cover the pool.

A tight fit of your pool cover is essential. Your cover should not have holes or gaps where leaves and debris may enter the pool. A mesh safety cover provides the highest protection and safety. Solid pool covers are not safe and will require a cover pump or siphon to remove rain water and snow melt. Water Bags or AquaBloks are used to secure an inground solid pool cover. Above ground pool covers use a cable/winch device to secure the cover around the pool. Air Pillows are used in above ground pools to absorb the expansion of ice inside the pool. In areas of high wind, an above ground pool owner will find wall bags or cover seal useful products. A leaf net is very useful if you have a lot of trees surrounding your pool.

Warmer States:

In areas where it rarely gets below freezing temperatures, many people simply reduce the amount of filtration time per day, and also will find that the pool needs fewer chemicals. Covering the pool, even if not winterizing, will reduce cleaning and chemical and filtering demand even further.

I truly hope this information finds you well.

All the best,

Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Uncategorized | No Comments »

If you’re an above ground swimming pool owner I’ve got some exciting news for you.  Over the past several years I’ve had a ton of requests asking, “Do you have information specifically for above ground pool owners?”

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- The TOP items you need to be concerned about to get and permanently maintain flawless water chemistry.

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All the best,

Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Safety Tips, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »

Over the past few weeks, the most common email questions I’ve been receiving have been related to pH and TA – and understanding their relationship.  They really are very close “cousins” and the relationship is pretty interesting.

Today, we’re going to discuss EXACTLY how the relationship works so you have a better understanding.

IMPORTANT:  I also have a MAJOR announcement for SPA owners that I’ll get to at the bottom of this message.

Let’s dig deeper for a better understanding…

However, the relation ship between pH and total alkalinity (TA) is the most instrumental one that resides in your body of water…

If the total alkalinity is in the right range, pH won’t be so volatile.  If your pH is bouncing, chances are the TA is too low.  TA is the real driving force to controlling the pH.

If a service tech or do it “yourselfer” doesn’t understand this relationship, poor water balance can result.

TA is the governor of pH.    Don’t try to change the pH unless the TA is in the right range. The first correction is always TA…then you address any pH issue. And you may never have to change it if the TA is OK.

Here’s a look at exactly what pH and TA are, how they relate and interact and what service techs can do to keep it all under control.

What is pH?

Let’s go back to High School chemistry class (I’ll keep it painless and I promise there’s no test at the end).

pH is defined as a measure of water’s acidity or alkalinity. This is done by determining the power of hydrogen ions (H+) in the water. These ions are measured on a logarithmic scale from 0-14, with 0 being the most acidic and 14 the most basic or alkaline.

In simplified terms, pH is actually counting how many hydrogen ions are in the water.

Ideally, one is shooting for 7.4 to 7.6, slightly on the base side of neutral. This is a comfortable range for humans as well as the optimal pH range for chlorine to do its job.

Keep in mind that extraneous factors from both people and Mother Nature can alter pH levels. Things such as pool parties with high bather loads or heavy rainstorms, especially when the rain tends to be on the acidic side, all have an impact. In the wake of such events, we need to check water chemistry variables as soon as possible.

If the pH is allowed to dip below the 7.2 minimum standard, the water becomes more acidic or, as it is sometimes known, aggressive. This can lead to equipment corrosion, pool surface damage and inefficient sanitizer use.

If the pH rises above the 8.3 level, the pool may experience scale and high turbidity. In either case, skin and eye irritation can be an end result here.

It is important to monitor pH levels because the number drastically impacts the Saturation Index equation - a formula used to diagnose water’s chemical balance.

When the pH changes (for any reason),so does the Saturation Index.

That’s because although both TA and pH figure into the Saturation index, pH has a larger impact on it.

For example, a TA reading of 150 ppm uses a factor of 2.2 in the formula. A reading of 200 ppm is represented by a factor of 2.3. In fact, TA ranges from100 to 300 ppm are represented by factors ranging only from 2.0 to 2.5.Consequently, it takes a major shift in TA ppm to affect the results of the Saturation Index formula.

On the other hand, the Saturation Index uses the actual pH reading in the formula - not a factor–so the change in the pH will have a profound effect on the outcome.

Whatever the pH changes, the index will change in the exact same amount. It’s a 1:1 factor.  If you want to change the Saturation Index, lower or raise the pH.

When pH levels stray, most employ muriatic acid to lower it and sodium bicarbonate or soda ash to raise it.

However, it’s not always that simple. If all the variables are not in their proper ranges as well, particularly total alkalinity, it can be difficult keeping the pH within ideal limits.

The TA/pH relationship:

Total alkalinity has an important relationship with pH in swimming pool water. But first, what exactly is TA?

Total alkalinity is essentially a natural buffering system that helps to stabilize pH readings.  If pH is counting how many hydrogen ions in the water, TA is counting how many things in the water are capable of absorbing hydrogen.

Simply put, total alkalinity is made up of things that can take on hydrogen.

At higher pH ranges, total alkalinity is the combined presence of hydroxide ions (OH-),carbonate ions (CO3) and bicarbonate ions (HCO3).

However, in swimming pools and hot tubs, where the pH range shouldn’t stray too far from the recommended mid 7 range, TA remains strictly a bicarbonate.

TA is nearly 100 percent bicarbonate in pools unless the pH is in the 9.0range or better.  You can define TA as the sum of alkaline salts and, in essence, to simplify things…the primary one is bicarbonate.

When TA levels are too high or too low, it affects overall water balance. For example, with water that has very low TA levels, the pH is under stabilized and will change dramatically whenever even small additions of chemical are made.

Water becomes more corrosive to plaster and metal fittings and heater elements. In conditions of excessive bicarbonate alkalinity, the pH is overstabilized and tends to remain around 8.3. The pH level is likely to bounce back to the 8.3 range even after acid is added. With TA and pH in such high ranges, dull, turbid water also can result.

I truly hope this pH and TA “overview” helps manage this interesting relationship – it can be a complicated one. I’ve really tried to break it down to something that isn’t terribly technical so it can be better understood.

ANNOUNCEMENT (BRAND NEW AND 100% F-R-E-E!):

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Best of all…the tips and content I’m sharing are 100% F-R-E-E!

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All the best,
Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 4 Comments »