Over the past few weeks, the most common email questions I’ve been receiving have been related to pH and TA – and understanding their relationship.  They really are very close “cousins” and the relationship is pretty interesting.

Today, we’re going to discuss EXACTLY how the relationship works so you have a better understanding.

IMPORTANT:  I also have a MAJOR announcement for SPA owners that I’ll get to at the bottom of this message.

Let’s dig deeper for a better understanding…

However, the relation ship between pH and total alkalinity (TA) is the most instrumental one that resides in your body of water…

If the total alkalinity is in the right range, pH won’t be so volatile.  If your pH is bouncing, chances are the TA is too low.  TA is the real driving force to controlling the pH.

If a service tech or do it “yourselfer” doesn’t understand this relationship, poor water balance can result.

TA is the governor of pH.    Don’t try to change the pH unless the TA is in the right range. The first correction is always TA…then you address any pH issue. And you may never have to change it if the TA is OK.

Here’s a look at exactly what pH and TA are, how they relate and interact and what service techs can do to keep it all under control.

What is pH?

Let’s go back to High School chemistry class (I’ll keep it painless and I promise there’s no test at the end).

pH is defined as a measure of water’s acidity or alkalinity. This is done by determining the power of hydrogen ions (H+) in the water. These ions are measured on a logarithmic scale from 0-14, with 0 being the most acidic and 14 the most basic or alkaline.

In simplified terms, pH is actually counting how many hydrogen ions are in the water.

Ideally, one is shooting for 7.4 to 7.6, slightly on the base side of neutral. This is a comfortable range for humans as well as the optimal pH range for chlorine to do its job.

Keep in mind that extraneous factors from both people and Mother Nature can alter pH levels. Things such as pool parties with high bather loads or heavy rainstorms, especially when the rain tends to be on the acidic side, all have an impact. In the wake of such events, we need to check water chemistry variables as soon as possible.

If the pH is allowed to dip below the 7.2 minimum standard, the water becomes more acidic or, as it is sometimes known, aggressive. This can lead to equipment corrosion, pool surface damage and inefficient sanitizer use.

If the pH rises above the 8.3 level, the pool may experience scale and high turbidity. In either case, skin and eye irritation can be an end result here.

It is important to monitor pH levels because the number drastically impacts the Saturation Index equation - a formula used to diagnose water’s chemical balance.

When the pH changes (for any reason),so does the Saturation Index.

That’s because although both TA and pH figure into the Saturation index, pH has a larger impact on it.

For example, a TA reading of 150 ppm uses a factor of 2.2 in the formula. A reading of 200 ppm is represented by a factor of 2.3. In fact, TA ranges from100 to 300 ppm are represented by factors ranging only from 2.0 to 2.5.Consequently, it takes a major shift in TA ppm to affect the results of the Saturation Index formula.

On the other hand, the Saturation Index uses the actual pH reading in the formula - not a factor–so the change in the pH will have a profound effect on the outcome.

Whatever the pH changes, the index will change in the exact same amount. It’s a 1:1 factor.  If you want to change the Saturation Index, lower or raise the pH.

When pH levels stray, most employ muriatic acid to lower it and sodium bicarbonate or soda ash to raise it.

However, it’s not always that simple. If all the variables are not in their proper ranges as well, particularly total alkalinity, it can be difficult keeping the pH within ideal limits.

The TA/pH relationship:

Total alkalinity has an important relationship with pH in swimming pool water. But first, what exactly is TA?

Total alkalinity is essentially a natural buffering system that helps to stabilize pH readings.  If pH is counting how many hydrogen ions in the water, TA is counting how many things in the water are capable of absorbing hydrogen.

Simply put, total alkalinity is made up of things that can take on hydrogen.

At higher pH ranges, total alkalinity is the combined presence of hydroxide ions (OH-),carbonate ions (CO3) and bicarbonate ions (HCO3).

However, in swimming pools and hot tubs, where the pH range shouldn’t stray too far from the recommended mid 7 range, TA remains strictly a bicarbonate.

TA is nearly 100 percent bicarbonate in pools unless the pH is in the 9.0range or better.  You can define TA as the sum of alkaline salts and, in essence, to simplify things…the primary one is bicarbonate.

When TA levels are too high or too low, it affects overall water balance. For example, with water that has very low TA levels, the pH is under stabilized and will change dramatically whenever even small additions of chemical are made.

Water becomes more corrosive to plaster and metal fittings and heater elements. In conditions of excessive bicarbonate alkalinity, the pH is overstabilized and tends to remain around 8.3. The pH level is likely to bounce back to the 8.3 range even after acid is added. With TA and pH in such high ranges, dull, turbid water also can result.

I truly hope this pH and TA “overview” helps manage this interesting relationship – it can be a complicated one. I’ve really tried to break it down to something that isn’t terribly technical so it can be better understood.

ANNOUNCEMENT (BRAND NEW AND 100% F-R-E-E!):

I’ve had quite a few requests from spa owners for information that specifically pertains to just spa.  Your wish is finally true.  After months In the works I’ve compiled a TON of useful information that will help you out BIG TIME.

Best of all…the tips and content I’m sharing are 100% F-R-E-E!

Grab Your Spa Tips Here For F-R-E-E!

I won’t keep this page up forever, but now it’s yours for the taking.  Hop on over and discover proven strategies and “tricks of the trade” to save a ton of cash and time while maintaining your spa…

You’re going to thoroughly enjoy the information.

Grab Your FREE Spa Tips Right Here…

All the best,
Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »

If you’ve been struggling with your balancing your water chemistry, this quick tidbit should help you…

Let’s face it - no one likes to play the role of “mad scientist” and who enjoys chemistry anyway?

Well, fortunately, a pool owner doesn’t have to play any of those roles, but we do need to know some basics when it comes to maintaining our water. OK, so what are the most important elements to manage water chemistry effectively…and, without breaking the bank?

I like to call these “Core Components”. These are really the stepping stones for most of what takes place in your pool water - managing these items effectively creates a much more enjoyable swim season and will save you money too…

Let’s dig in: “Core Components To Successful Water Chemistry”

1. Free Chlorine - pretty obvious. Not much commentary necessary here. No pathogens/bacteria = reduced/eliminated algae flare ups.

2. Total Alkalinity. One could call this the “heart” of their water chemistry. Perhaps even the most important single element of proper chemistry because so many things in your water can be impacted by this one variable. Ideally, this should be between 80 and 120 ppm (only varying a bit based upon the surface of your pool), and is essentially a measure of the ability of a solution to neutralize hydrogen ions.

Total alkalinity is the result of alkaline materials including carbonates, bicarbonates and hydroxides - mostly bicarbonates.

Putting aside all the “technical jargon”, TA is essentially a “buffer” to keep the pH from swinging wildly all over the place. If it’s too low it can cause the pH to change rapidly…ultimately causing “etching” and corrosion. Too high and you can get cloudy water, the pH becomes difficult to adjust and can reduce the effectiveness of chlorine (and other sanitizers as well).

3. The 3rd and final “Core Component” is…you got it, pH. This is essentially a measurement of the amount or strength of hydrogen in your pool water. It also can cause a reaction to practically every other area of your water when it gets out of whack.

Without getting too technical here, let’s break down the process just a bit of what pH really is…

(bare with me as I throw my pocket protector on real quick)…

It indicates the relative acidity or basicity of pool water. pH is measured on a scale of 0 (strong acid) to 14 (strong base) with 7 being the neutral pH. Ideally, you’d like to see it within the range of 7.4-7.6.

When the pH is too low, the water becomes acidic, your residual chlorine loses its effectiveness rapidly, etching can take place, corrosion of equipment can take place and your TA is impacted.

Too high and the chlorine also becomes inefficient, scale can take place on the tile line and pool surface and you may experience cloudy water.

What’s the bottom line here…

Be proactive on especially these 3 items - the outcomes of these being out of whack can take days to correct and also force you to spend on items that easily could have been avoided.

I truly hope you’ve enjoyed this piece on “Core Components”.

All the best,

Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »

How much are you spending per hour to run your swimming pool equipment?  This chart will give tell you exactly what you’re spending on your swimming pool electricity (unless you’ve gone through a fairly recent price adjustment).

This is another interesting chart (courtesy of k12e3.org) where you can see for the typical pool owner, the electricy cost of running their pool is 2nd to only a spa/pump heater.

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If you’re reading this now, you’ll notice I actually released my brand new report (How To Properly Maintain Your Swimming Pool Equipment) about 36 hours ahead of the email (the email sharing this report won’t go out until Friday morning)

It pays to stay up to date and check out the blog periodically.  This is just my way of saying “thank you” for being a subscriber to the swimming pool industry’s leading maintenance newsletter.

In this report you’ll discover:

1.  The single, main enemy of a swimming pool pump (and what to do if you are “attacked” by this enemy).

2.  Proper filter maintenance - what to check for, when and what to do if something is not right.

3.  4 main items that one should take note of when it comes to maintaining their pool pump.

4.  The importance of being PROACTIVE when it comes to maintenance (hint:  being REACTIVE can cause us a bunch of frustration and a ton of cash).

5.  And some other really cool things too!

Download your report right here!

Note: It’s a quick read (about 9 pages, but there’s some images and such).  I’m confident you’re going to benefit from the information - take 10 minutes and check it out.

My Big Announcement:

One of the most frequently received questions I’ve received over the past few years revolves around “being environmentally friendly”.  Alternative ways to heat a swimming pool, solar energy, the benefits of salt systems, geothermal technology, ways to save on electricity, solar blankets/pool covers, multi speed pool pumps, etc…

Problem Solved.

**  Important  ** My newest product, “How To Save The Environment, Your Pool And Your Wallet” will be going live at 2 PM ET on May 20, 2009. This will show you how to be environmentally friendly with your pool and it will also share with you how to save a ton of cash at the same time!  It does save to go green (you’re going to LOVE this).

Be on the lookout.

Also, in the next few days, I’ll be sharing some really good information on “the real cost of chemicals”, alternative methods to heat a pool and items you can do right now to save on your electricity bill (and help the environment at the same time).  And yes, these items can be implemented NOW to save a bundle as we enter the pool season.

Enjoy.

Hope all is well with you and yours.

I’ll be in touch soon!

Terry Duff

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Algae, Swimming Pool Chemicals, Swimming Pool Safety Tips, Swimming Pool Salt Systems, Uncategorized | No Comments »

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Here’s What You Need To Know If You’re Planning On Doing An Acid Wash To your Swimming Pool.

Sidenote: An acid wash should not be administered to a vinyl or above ground pool.

Who can do this? Anyone who’s willing to get a little dirty.  This can be done by pool owners who are looking to save a few bucks - there is labor involved.  Make sure you wear jeans, protective boots, goggles, rubber gloves and a respirator - the acid fumes can be very strong. This is not something to take lightly.

An acid wash is also called a drain and clean or an acid bath.  An acid wash becomes necessary if the pool has become a black lagoon (can often happen if winterizing has not been completed properly).  This is also a great way to eliminate/reduce staining.

What an acid wash really does: The purpose of an acid wash is to remove a very fine layer of the pool surface - bringing out a “new” coat.  When done properly, an acid wash can really make the pool surface look near new again.

A general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is if you can see the bottom of the pool, most of the time, you can bring it back to life with chemicals, some elbow grease and adequate filtration/circulation. If the floor is not visible, the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the acid wash charge, and take quite a bit longer. Also, extensive and repetitive algae problems will stain plastered pools, making an acid wash the recommended route to take.

An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster, exposing fresh plaster beneath. One should not do this every year. If you have consistent staining - there’s something taking place in the chemistry (test for metals, TDS and calcium counts in the water). Most plaster coats (whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2″, so a few careful acid washes should not hurt.

If the staining is very light you may want to consider doing a pressure wash or a very light acid wash (consider 3 parts acid/1 part water - do a small area and see how it looks).

You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains…an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement.

If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily….changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer.

Be extremely careful in working with muriatic acid. Pool technicians and professionals are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location.  You can (and should) have the soda ash at the bottom of the pool to immediately neutralize the acid as it flows down during the wash.

Phase 1 to an acid wash: As you drain the pool, wash it down (scrub if necessary) to remove all algae, leaves and any other debris.

Phase 2: When the pool is clean and empty, you can begin to acid wash the plaster. Put on protective clothing and rubber boots, goggles and wear a breathing mask designed for acid fumes.

Phase 3: Proper mixing of the acid.  Add 1 gallon acid to 1 gallon water in a flower watering can.  Always add the acid to the water - NOT water to acid.  Wet down the wall with a hose. Keep the hose(s) running at all times, without a nozzle on it. Pour the acid/water mixture down the wall, from top to bottom, one 5-10 foot section at a time.

Do not allow the acid to sit on the plaster for very long. Usually 30 seconds is plenty sufficient. Use an acid brush to scrub the surfaces and move the acid around. Rinse quickly and thoroughly.

Phase 4: Once the acid wash has been completed, make sure the pool surface is rinsed completely - don’t take any chances here.  Acid that sits on plaster/pebble too long can “burn” or etch the surface.

Also try to prevent the acid from wearing a channel path from shallow end to deep end. This can create a worn stripe on the floor.  If this does happen, make sure it’s quickly neutralized.

If the 50/50 solution isn’t strong enough, you can increase the acid strength or the hang time (before rinsing), or scrub harder. To maximize the effectiveness of the process you can also repeat the acid wash twice using the same strength mixture.

The surface, however, should be completely hosed down before the second wash.  You don’t want to damage or “burn” the plaster.

After the acid wash, the bottom of the pool will be filled with a foamy, acid puddle. This needs to be neutralized before pumping out. A good rule of thumb is to use 2 lbs of soda ash per 1 gallon of acid used.

Broadcast the ash over the puddle while stirring with a pool brush on a pole. Use a small submersible pump with a hose to pump out the remaining acid water. Be careful where you pump it to. Even if properly neutralized, it may destroy plants, grass, animals, etc.

** You’ll end up with a puddle at the deep end of the pool - make sure this acid is neutralized and use lots of water as you’re pumping it out.  It can leave an “acid ring” on the perimeter of where the water sits.

Don’t rush the job and be safe. The fumes can be very strong, and very dangerous.

Phase 5: Let’s clean up.  Spray off before exiting the pool. If you do get acid in your eyes, rinse for 10-15 minutes - if the burning persists, consult your physician or visit the hospital.  Make sure there’s another person around when you’re completing this project.

Acid on the skin won’t usually burn too much (unless it’s over a cut or scrape), just rinse quickly, until the burning goes away.

If your pool is vinyl lined, acid is not used. Detergents, conditioners and good ‘ol elbow grease will remove the “slime”. The liner must then be “reset” with a vacuum to ensure proper fit during filling. Also, be sure not to completely drain the vinyl pool.  There can be problems getting the liner to reset properly, and there is also the possibility of the caving in (you don’t want that).

Although pool companies will vary in price for this service, some rough numbers are as follows:

1. Drain = $125.00
2. Acid Wash = $125-200 (depending on condition of surface)
3. Start up chemicals = $75-150 (depending on size of pool)

Total = $325 and up.

You can do this yourself for under $125 - using the chemicals referenced above and start up chemicals (salt (if you have a salt pool), liquid chlorine, shock, conditioner).

Many may choose to hire a company to do this after seeing the process - the most important thing is to be safe and make sure it’s done properly.  If you choose to hire someone or a company, be sure to watch them so next time you can do it yourself.

And that’s how you acid wash a swimming pool.

All the best,

Terry

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Can one really reduce calcium levels in their pool water? 

It’s a good question and there’s quite a bit of debate in the industry whether chelating or sequestering agents really work…

Let’s see if we can break it down in further detail.

First let’s identity what calcium hardness really means.

Total hardness in a pool is essentially a total measurement of all the dissolved minerals such as calcium, magnesium and sodium. It is possible to have other minerals enter the water, but for the sake of simplicity, I’ll keep it at the most common.

Most in the pool industry use calcium hardness as a reference in pool water chemistry.

When calcium hardness reaches anything over about 400 ppm, bad things can take place.  This is when water can become aggressive or nonreactive, excessive scaling can take place not only on the tile line, but it can also cause issues in plumbing and equipment as well.

So, the best solution is to keep it between 200 and 400 ppm. On the low side, erosion can take place with plaster, grout, it can cause rust as well.

If the range here isn’t dialed in appropriately unpleasant things take place.

There are 2 primary causes of high calcium levels…

1.  Fill water - some water naturally has high amounts of calcium (make sure you’re testing if you drain/refill your pool with city or well water. )  If you’re planning on draining your pool, make sure you test your water source prior to doing so.  Some parts of the country are much worse than others.

2.  Chemicals.  Many chemicals that ones adds to their pool contain high amounts of calcium.  One very common example is calcium hypochlorite.  This is contained in most chlorine products (although you can get calcium free chlorine as well).  Certainly, this can contribute to the calcium levels in your pool.

Think of a glass of tea (bare with my lame analogy here ok? 

You add a pack or two of sugar or your favorite substitute and the tea absorbs it…no big deal.

What happens as you continue adding more packets…slowly, the tea can’t handle the addition.  Before too many packets, it begins building up at the bottom of the glass of tea.

Your pool is no different.

Solution Time:

There’s a couple of options to consider…

1.  I’m a big fan of draining the water every few years (if you have a vinyl pool or fiberglass, backwash it down several times to the skimmer over a few weeks to replace half or more of the water).  Every 3 years or so, can prevent this from becoming an issue.  Let’s say one spends about $125 to refill a pool.  This beats the pants off compared to what can take place if nothing is done.  If you have no calcium hardness issues, don’t drain - no sense in an unnecessary expense.  Let test results tell you what to do.

2.  There are numerous chelating or sequestering products on the market that can reduce calcium levels.  Well…sort of.  With current technology, the calcium doesn’t necessarily “remove” itself from the pool.  It essentially bonds with the chelating agent to create the desired end result.

Not all of these products are created equally.  Most pool retailers carry various “calcium reducers”.  I haven’t found them to be completely effective, but they will bring down calcium levels.

Hope this helps shedding some light on this subject.

Be well,

Terry

Filed under: General Information, Swimming Pool Chemicals | No Comments »